There’s something deeply suspicious about a snowy road that looks this polite. Wide, white, neatly packed, flanked by trees that stand like they’re posing for a postcard. That’s how it started in Spindleruv Mlyn: all of us walking confidently, pretending we absolutely knew where we were going. The air had that clean, alpine bite that makes your lungs feel refreshed and slightly judged, and every step sounded like a satisfying crunch you’d happily put on repeat. Spirits were high. Legs were warm. Nobody had yet suggested this was “basically flat.”

As the forest slowly opened up, the scenery shifted from friendly winter wonderland to dramatic “are we still on the right path?” real fast. Snowfields stretched out like blank pages, with lonely trees scattered around as if they’d lost a bet. Somewhere in the distance, mountains lounged under heavy clouds, half-hidden, looking mysterious and mildly unimpressed by our presence. This is usually the moment when conversation fades and everyone pretends they’re taking photos, when in reality they’re just catching their breath and reconsidering life choices.

Lunch, thankfully, arrived before any mutiny. Medvedi Bouda appeared like a wooden mirage, all red planks and mountain-chalet energy, promising warmth, food, and the sweet relief of sitting down. Inside, boots thumped, jackets steamed, and plates arrived that instantly made the hike feel like a brilliant idea. Nothing tastes better than mountain food earned the hard way, preferably while staring out a window and watching the weather do whatever dramatic thing it feels like doing that day.

Post-lunch confidence is a dangerous thing. Fueled by full stomachs and optimism, we pushed on through misty ridges, past rocks dusted in snow and signs pointing in several directions at once, none of which felt particularly reassuring. Somewhere near a border sign screaming “POZOR!” at us, the landscape turned moody. Wind picked up, clouds thickened, and the world shrank to shades of white, grey, and dark green. It was quiet in that special mountain way, where even your thoughts seem to lower their voices.

By the time Moravska Bouda emerged from the fog, it felt less like a building and more like a reward. Solid, dark, and stubbornly standing there as if to say, “Yes, you made it. No, it wasn’t easy.” Boots came off, layers were abandoned, and the kind of tired happiness set in that only appears after a long walk with good people. Outside, snow kept falling. Inside, the night settled comfortably around us. Somewhere between the last steps of the day and the first moment of rest, Spindleruv Mlyn quietly worked its magic — the kind that doesn’t shout, doesn’t rush, and definitely doesn’t care how many steps your watch recorded.